French ‘gastronomy capital’ gives Paris run for its money – and flights are £40

From flaky, buttery croissants to a creamy boeuf bourguignon, Paris is world-famous for its foodie culture.

But with 44 million tourists each year, the French capital can often be overcrowded – and it’s one of the most expensive cities in the world.

There is, however, one equally foodie city further south that is giving Paris’s food scene a run for its money.

Lyon sits between the Rhône and Saône rivers, and while you’ve probably heard of it before, we bet you didn’t know that it’s a top gourmet destination.

In fact, according to the Michelin Guide, it’s taking over as ‘France’s global gastronomy capital.’

There are 91 Michelin guide restaurants in Lyon, and it’s said to be one of the best places in France to get quintessential dishes including coq au vin and potato dauphinoise.

Lyon’s foodie history goes back thousands of years – to the second century BC, in fact, when Lyon became a player in the wine trade. Its culinary hotspot status, however, really began in the sixteenth century, when Marie de Medici, the wife of King Henri IV, employed Italian cooks at their court.

Not only did they impress French royalty, but they created new foodie traditions by combining Italian recipes with regional Lyonnais produce.

To this day, Lyon is surrounded by high-quality food and drinks, with the Beaujolais vineyards to the north and the lakes in Ain, where delicious carp and crayfish are sourced, while Charolais beef is derived from Charolles, just outside the city.

Aside from world-class eats, the city is also steeped in culture. Parts of the centre are over 2,000 years old, dating back to the Roman Era, as seen through the Roman Amphithéâtre des Trois Gaules.

Things to do (and eat) in Lyon

At the foot of Fourvière Hill, you can find the blissfully quiet streets of vieux (old) Lyon, across the river from the more modern, bustling streets. This part of the city has Renaissance-era mansions, hidden courtyards and terracotta-tiled roofs, as well as the famous medieval Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste.

The hilly streets are also home to various fine-dining hotspots, including Chez Grand-Mère, Bouchon Les Lyonnais, and Les Adrets, all of which boast delicious French cuisine.

And when it comes to regional delicacies, Lyon is famous for its own, unique dishes. Scan the menus for quenelle (a fish croquette), fromage blanc (a cheese spread with oil, herbs and vinegar), andouillette (spiced pork sausage and wine), and Lyonnaise salad.

And if you’re a fan of wine and cheese, there’s Côtes du Rhône and Saint-Marcellin aplenty here.

And, for an insight into art and history, there are museums to be found in the form of Musée Cinéma et Miniature, the Museum of Fine Arts, and Musée des Confluences (if rivers are your thing).

Beware the ‘Sunday culture’

If you’re looking to spend a lovely long weekend in Lyon, there’s something you’ll need to be aware of: and that’s the Sunday vibes.

Lyon is a very traditional French city, and to this effect, most things are closed on Sundays as, historically, it’s a day where you’re expected to relax after a long week of work.

To this effect, you’ll need to plan ahead if you’re visiting over a weekend. When it comes to eating out, there are some restaurants that are open, but most are closed in keeping with tradition.

Traditional Lyonnaise restaurants that do continue service on Sundays include Restaurant Léon de Lyon, Le Boeuf d’Argent, Burgundy by Matthieu, and Bouchon Rouge, so if you want to try traditional regional foods including quenelle, onion soup, and fromage blanc, then these are your best bet.

When to visit Lyon

Lyon is delightful all year round, but the summer enjoys the highest temperatures. In June, July and August, the mercury averages between 24C and 27C, which is apt if you’re looking to top up on the vitamin D front.

However, spring is equally delightful, with temperatures in March and April reaching between 13C and 16C. Coffee and croissants can be enjoyed in all weathers!

Five fab hotels to stay at in Lyon on Booking.com:

Prices checked in May 2024 for a two-night weekend stay in Lyon in June 2024.

How to get to Lyon

Lyon is incredibly accessible from the UK, with direct flights from London Luton to Lyon-Saint Exupéry taking 1 hour 40 minutes on average. Through EasyJet, there are return tickets starting at around £40.

But for a real adventure, why not try getting the train the whole way there? Take the Eurostar from London St Pancras International to Paris Gare de Nord, and make your way over to Gare de Lyon for a direct train down to Lyon (it takes around 2 hours).

Plus, you’ll get an insight into the beauty that is the French TGV – AKA, the impressive high-speed trains that give LNR a run for its money.

It works out a little more expensive this way, but there are return Eurostar tickets available for around £80 if you book far enough in advance, while a ticket down to Lyon from Paris ticks in at around £30 return (if you book in advance).

Bon voyage!

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